The Dominican Republic's
bus companies provide an excellent, inexpensive service over much of the country. Lines at the stations move quickly, there's plenty of room for luggage on the vehicles and trips are relatively pleasant. Even more extensive, and cheaper, is the informal network of
guaguas - ranging from fairly decent minibuses to battered, overcrowded vans - that cover every inch of the DR; in most cases, you should be prepared for some discomfort - and you'll have a hard time fitting in much luggage.
Taxis are another option for getting around the cities, and by foreign standards are relatively cheap; reputable operators are listed throughout the section.
Car rental is common as well, but the cost is generally high. Domestic airlines , on the other hand, are reasonably economical, and can make sense if you're not exploring much beyond the main centres. Finally, a number of tour operators in Santo Domingo, Puerto Plata and the all-inclusive resorts organize individual itineraries and packages with transport included.
By bus
Caribe Tours (in Santo Domingo tel 809/221-4422) boasts by far the most extensive bus network, while Metro (in Santo Domingo tel 809/566-7126) can get you from the capital to the Cibao, Puerto Plata and the Samaná Peninsula. Both have comprehensive brochures available in their stations, listing destinations and departure times. In addition, you'll find several regional bus companies, though vehicles and drivers tend to vary more in quality. Unless it's a public holiday, you won't need
advance reservations , but you should arrive at least an hour before the bus leaves to be sure of getting a seat. As the bus companies strive to stay in competition with
guaguas , rates are extremely cheap. Even a cross-country trip from Santo Domingo to Samaná or Monte Cristi will set you back no more than RD$70, while shorter trips fall in the RD$40-50 range.
By guaguas, públicos and motoconchos
The informal system of guaguas , an unregulated network of private operators, is a distinctive Dominican experience that you should try at least once. Aside from the local colour, they're worth using because they're incredibly cheap and cover far more of the country than the bus companies. To catch a
guagua , either ask for the location of the local station or simply stand by the side of the road and wave your arms at one as it passes. For longer trips, you'll often have to transfer
guaguas at major towns, but even the longest leg of the trip will cost no more than RD$40; more often, you'll be paying RD$5-10.
Santo Domingo to the southeast and the Barahona region are often served by far more comfortable, air-conditioned minibuses ; along the Silver Coast, the vans are augmented by private cars called públicos , which charge RD$5 and only go to the next nearest town and wait to fill up before heading off. Públicos also make up part of the city transport system in Santo Domingo, and dominate it in Santiago. City routes rarely cost more than RD$2. In Puerto Plata and other smaller towns, city transit is instead in the form of motoconchos , inexpensive, small-engined motorbikes that ferry you from place to place; they're faster than the públicos but can be dangerous.
By car
Car rental is expensive in the DR, though you can cut your costs a bit - and avoid a lot of hassle - by booking in advance with an international operator. Rates start around US$45-50 per day, with unlimited mileage but no discount for longer rental periods; you should also get full collision insurance, an extra US$10-12 per day. Even with collision, though, you're contractually responsible for any damage up to RD$25,000. You should therefore take special care to note all dents, scratches and missing parts before signing off. Dominicans drive on the right-hand side of the road , often at a breakneck pace. You'll have to keep a careful eye out along the highways, as large commercial buses and cargo trucks constantly veer into the opposite lane to pass slower vehicles.
By plane
If you're travelling across the country, say from Santo Domingo to Samaná, and aren't especially interested in what lies in between, it's worth considering a domestic flight . Air Santo Domingo (tel 809/683-8006, ) is a good local carrier, affiliated with Air Europa, offering fast, fairly priced connections between Puerto Plata, Punta Cana, El Portillo (near Las Terrenas), La Romana, Santiago and Santo Domingo. Flights cost RD$500-1000 and last no more than an hour.