If you take all your meals at an all-inclusive hotel, you'll get little sense of how Dominicans eat and drink ; the "international" buffet fare on offer at these resorts can't compete with the delicious, no-nonsense cooking at the many mom-and-pop restaurants just outside their walls. Dominicans call their cuisine "comida criolla", and it's a delicious - if often a bit greasy - blend of Spanish, African and Taíno elements, with interesting regional variants across the island. Dishes usually include rice and beans - referred to locally as la bandera dominicana (the Dominican flag) - using either habichuelas (red beans) or the tiny black peas known as morros . Most often the rice is supplemented with chicken, either fried, grilled or served asopao (in a rich, soupy sauce). Invariably main courses come with plátanos (deep-fried green plantains, which locals often inundate with ketchup), and a small coleslaw salad. Outside of the major cities, vegetarians will often have to stick to rice and beans.

Local breakfasts are traditionally starchy and huge, and typically include huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs), sometimes con jamón (with bits of ham mixed in); mangú , mashed plantains mixed with oil and bits of fried onion; and queso frito , a deep-fried cheese. Dominican lunches are the day's main meal. Aside from the omnipresent chicken, popular main courses include mondongo , a tripe stew strictly for the strong of stomach; mofongo , a tasty blend of plantains, pork rinds and garlic; and bistec encebollado , grilled steak topped with onions and peppers. Special occasions , particularly in rural areas, call for either chivo (roast goat) with cassava , a crispy, flat bread inherited from the Taínos; or sancocho , a hearty stew with five different kinds of meat. For the very best in Dominican eating, go for the seafood , which is traditionally prepared one of five ways: criolla , in a flavourful, slightly spicy tomato sauce; al ajillo , doused in a rich garlic sauce; al horno , roasted with lemon; al orégano , in a tangy sauce with fresh oregano and heavy cream; and con coco , in a tomato, garlic and coconut milk blend especially prevalent on the Samaná Peninsula. The best local fish are the mero (sea bass), chillo (red snapper) and carite (kingfish). Other popular seafoods include langosta (clawless lobster), lambí (conch), camarones (shrimp), pulpo (octopus) and cangrejo (crab).

As far as drinks go, Dominican coffee is among the best in the world. Most Dominicans take it solo , with a great deal of sugar added, which is the way it's sold for RD$1 by morning street vendors, and handed out for free in the petrol stations. Dominican café con leche is made with steamed milk and is extremely good. Jugo de naranja , fresh orange juice squeezed as you order it, is another omnipresent Dominican morning drink; be sure to ask for it sin azúcar (without sugar). Later in the day you should sample the fresh coconut milk sold by street vendors, and the many Dominican batidas , popular fruit shakes made with ice, milk and either papaya, mango, pineapple or banana.

There are several Dominican beer brands, but by far the best and most popular is Presidente , served in both normal-sized and surreally large bottles, and comparing favourably with beers from across the world. Also popular are the very good, inexpensive local rums , Brugal, Barceló and Bermúdez.